New web service seeks to fundamentally change the way our food systems function!

Using the site is very simple – farmers just load the products they are selling and include important details such as the quantity, variety and agricultural cultivation methods used, for example organic or free-range. Buyers can search the site using their zip code to browse farms or products in their local area. Purchases can be made from multiple farms at the same time, directly on the site using a PayPal account.For getting the products to the buyer, farmers using the site specify their availability to either deliver the product directly, or arrange for product pick-up. Buyers can also choose how they wish to receive their purchased products.The local food movement just gained a new head of steam. A new website, Pick-A-Pepper.com, just introduced a new web platform for buying and selling locally produced food. The service is free for farmers and food artisans and gives consumers of all types (schools, restaurants, families) a central location to source fresh and local products. Farmers, gardeners, and food artisans, large and small alike can use the site to post their fresh produce, meat, and kitchen creations (just to name a few) the moment they are available for sale.

Emma O’Connell of Redbuds Farm in Rocheport, Missouri is the CEO and Founder of Pick-A-Pepper. On the launch of Pick-A-Pepper.com, she said:

“As a small-scale farmer and mother of two I was looking for a more flexible and independent way to sell my products than the weekend Farmer’s Market. Pick-A-Pepper allows farmers to connect directly with consumers the moment they have products available, pay online and arrange for a convenient exchange. As a farmer and mother, I believe in the importance of fresh, local food, it is not only healthier but it also supports the local economy helping keep our communities strong. Having worked in the restaurant business for years I was always frustrated to see tomatoes delivered from California when it was prime tomato season in Missouri. Pick-A-Pepper makes it easy for any individual, restaurateur, or institution to purchase fresh food from your neighborhood gardener or local farmer.”

The site also includes a weekly blog by Emma on topics of interest to farmers and local food consumers. The site will also regularly highlight “featured vendors” across the country so you can learn more about the people producing the food on your table. Emma continues to explain:

“I am confident that this website will make buying local easier and more accessible for everyone, it’s fresh local food at your fingertips.”

To begin buying or selling fresh, local products or to learn more visit http://www.pick-a-pepper.com, you can also become a fan of the site on facebook or follow Emma’s tweet @localandfresh

For more information contact: Emma O’Connell at (emma@pick-a-pepper.com)

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Don’t panic!
These things happen from time to time. It is nearly inevitable unless you have a high volume spring feeding your pond or lake. The water will return.

We are having a severe drought, accompanied by a severe heat wave in some parts of the U.S. And many small lakes and ponds (and some very large ones too) are drying up. I know it is sad to see your pond or small lake drying out, and drying up, and I know there is probably little that can be done about it except to wait for the rains to return.

That does not mean that you should do nothing!

While there is little that can be done about the rain, that doesn’t mean you have to just take it as a loss. No, to the contrary, this is a great opportunity to perform maintenance, make improvements, and get your pond or small lake into the best condition possible before it refills. Don’t just set around and mope about it, get out there and do something productive. This opportunity won’t last forever! The water will return, and when it does, you can and should be prepared.

1. If you have a dock, boathouse, or other structures on and directly adjacent to your lake, it is probably more accessible now than it has been in years. This would be the perfect time to do any needed repairs or upgrades. If you have been thinking of adding any of these features to your lake doing it before it refills will save you money.
2. Dam inspection can be done at this time. It may be the only opportunity you have to visually inspect this part of your reservoir from the inside for many years.
3. Overflow pipes can be checked and adjusted as required. Do not raise the level without professional advice about the safety of your dam.
4. Debris removal can be accomplished on a dry like bed without having to fight the water. This is the time to remove that thing, or those things that have been bothering you for years. Who knows what kind of treasure might be out there?
5. Consider making the edges of your pond deeper. Dredging can probably be done with a backhoe or loader at this stage. Making the water deeper at the edges will increase the amount of water your lake contains, and decrease the likelihood of weed and pond scum problems.
6. If you suspect that your pond is leaky, this is also the perfect time to apply bentonite. It can be done with a tractor and spreader in much the same way you would apply fertilizer. The headland setting on your spreader will allow you to make unidirectional applications toward the center to cover areas that might still be to wet for the tractor.
7. If pH has been a problem, this is the perfect chance to apply lime directly to the bottom where it is needed the most. Lime can be applied by tractor and spreader with a headland setting without having to get into marshy areas if the reservoir is dried completely, or nearly dry.
8. If you have unwanted fish species in your pond, it will be easier to eliminate them now than at any other time. If you are like many people in the southern region of the country, it may be possible to physically remove unwanted fish without resorting to other more costly methods. You may need to get some advice from your county agent or from a professional to accomplish fish removal. Once this is done, and the water returns, you can restock with the appropriate species for your pond size and region.
9. Killing and or removing invasive lake weeds should be a little more efficient when the lake bed is dry.If you do this with a chemical, you should still use one that is labeled for aquatic use. Use a systemic weed killer that kills the entire plant to help prevent future infestations.
10. If you have had problems with excessive fertility , start making plans to plant a vegetative barrier at the inlet and anywhere else that large quantities of water flow in. Agricultural and horticultural nutrients have to go somewhere if they are washed from surrounding farm lands or lawns, and that somewhere is probably into your pond or lake unless something is there to absorb them.

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The points made here are important for anyone with this problem. Things like making the proper identification of the problem critter, following the label directions on all chemical products are very important steps in the safe elimination of such problems.

The questions and answers:
Hello,
I need your assistance.  Please give me a call to discuss my gopher situation.
Thanks

Hello,
I am not able to take on much new work at this time, but let me ask you a few questions please. Are the creatures you are having problems with tunneling close to the surface and leaving small mounds, or are they tunneling deeply and leaving large, horseshoe shaped mounds like a volcano with part of one side missing? The first type is moles, the second is gopher damage.
If it is moles, trapping is difficult, but using “Talprid” will work, and I would suggest following up with a treatment for grubs, since that is usually what they are after.
If it is a gopher problem, trapping them is the best way to handle them, and the next most effective method is tunnel treatment with poison grain.
I have all but stopped doing this type of trapping and treatment since the cost of fuel makes it little better than a break even proposition, and most people already complain about the price, but I do make some exceptions in some exceptional circumstances.
Thanks
Hi,
Sorry that I missed your calls yesterday.  We were having work done in our  back yard and I was tied up with the workers.  Anyway, yes, it is apparent that I have moles, not gophers.  I have always heard that the worms etc do not work, so that is why I haven’t tried them.  Do they sell this Talprid anywhere in the area?  I have started grub treatment about a month ago and have applied heavily two weeks apart.  I don’t see that it has slowed down at all.  What makes matters worse, is that due to a miscommunication, I have had ½ yard re-sodded. I am willing to try Talprid, as it seems as if I have tried everything else.  I see its available online readily.
Thanks for your help

Hello,
I think you should be able to pick some up at (supplier name).
Follow the label instructions and they work better than most other methods.
I would also consider treating the lawn with a product containing imidacloprid for controlling grubs for the rest of the season.
Thanks
Hi,
Does it have any effect on newly laid grass? (Imidalcoprid)
Hi,
That is a very good question! I have never run across it before, so I spent the last half hour reading product labels. Usually, if the product causes damage to new turf, it says so somewhere on the label, and I have read the labels on several products containing the chemical, and none mentioned it. You can find the product you want to use and call the company with that question if you are concerned that it might be a problem.
Thanks,
I appreciate all of your help.  I’ve never ran across something so difficult to get rid of……thanks again for all your help.  Will keep you posted–

Hello,
The best way to get rid of moles is to prevent them, and about the best way to prevent them is by keeping grubs out, and about the best way to keep grubs out is to do a treatment in the spring and fall with “seven” or something similar, and once from around mid May to the end of July with the product I mentioned earlier.
Grubs, at least around this area, are the larvae of the June bug. They seek light, and when they find a light source, they fly around until they are ready to lay eggs in the nearest patch of lawn that they can find. If you could get rid of all the lighting around your home and neighborhood, the problem would probably solve itself. We know we can’t do that, so the next best thing is treatment for them.
The moles come to dine on the grubs, but will stick around if they find another food source like earthworms.
I would love to hear how it works out.
Thanks
Editors note: I will post the outcome when it becomes available.

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I will let you in on a little secret concerning pest prevention and all things vegetation. The real key to preventing pests, whether they are the ones eating your shrubs, or the ones eating your vegetables, is to choose plants that are pest resistant. This is pretty easy to do in the garden, where disease resistance, and pest resistance can be bred in through hybridization on a pretty rapid basis. Shrubs and trees are a little different, but there is one pool of pest resistant plants for landscaping that has been modified to suit your conditions over hundreds of years of genetic adaptation, and that is the plants that are native to your area. Growing what grows naturally in your area will provide the ultimate in pest prevention in landscapes. There is an added benefit to good outdoor pest prevention practices, and that is that there will be fewer pests to invade your indoor habitat. Good indoor pest control starts with good outdoor pest control.

Lawn pest prevention

If you have the choice, the place to start with preventing pests in lawns, is selecting a variety of lawn grass which is native to your area. This can be difficult in some areas, but I will guarantee you that some plant research team in your area is working on the problem as you read this.

The second step is to use good cultural practices. I am not talking about etiquette, but the practices you use to maintain your lawn. Avoid over fertilizing and over watering, since these practices cause a flush of growth under conditions that are perfect for pest and disease invasion. Mow frequently to keep the weeds from seeding out, and to avoid thatch buildup which often allows bugs, fungi, and disease to go unnoticed until it is too late. Remember, what you are trying to accomplish is the removal of conditions that favor bugs, weeds, fungus and disease.

Garden pest prevention

Choose varieties of plants that are pest and disease resistant, water and fertilize appropriately for the plants, and make sure that the water loving plants are separated from the ones that like dry conditions. Be sure to keep plants that need full sunlight planted in a place where they can get full sunlight. Shade loving plants need shade. Reversing their placement will result in weak plants that will be more susceptible to pests, both bugs and weeds.

Landscape pest prevention

Plant choices and placement are the keys. Choose native plants over exotic plants, and you are well on your way. Place the plants that need dry conditions away from plants that may need more water, keep them healthy and do not damage them. As with garden plants, make sure that shade loving plants get shade, and sun loving plants get sunlight. Prune cleanly and at the proper place, and avoid damaging the landscape plants with tools and equipment which can weaken shrubs and trees causing conditions which encourage pests.

House pest prevention

If you have done everything right up to this point, preventing pests in structures is a simple matter of not inviting them inside, and blocking any strays. Pest prevention inside the home starts outside the home with good cultural practices in your lawn, garden and landscape.

Summary:

• Choose plant varieties that are pest resistant and disease resistant.
• Place the plants in proper places, shade lovers in the shade, sun lovers in the sun, and separate based on water requirements.
• Use the minimum amount of fertilizer needed to prevent excessive, pest attracting growth.
• Use the minimum amount of water needed to prevent a flush of pest susceptible growth.
• Cut and prune properly according to the needs of the plant to avoid conditions which invite pests.
• Avoid damaging lawns and plants with equipment.
• Outdoor pest prevention helps prevent indoor pests.

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From our readers responses, and the words and phrases you use to find our website, we can tell that the biggest problems for pond and lake owners are these:

• Lake weed control
• Pond scum control
• Skinny fish
• Mosquitoes

Lake problems: The cause

It is interesting to note that all of these problems can be treated using the same measures, and even though they may seem vastly different, they have the same primary cause.

We want to say at the start that before you embark on what we are about to suggest, you should:

• Clear out the existing lake weed problems by mechanical or chemical means.
• Get rid of the pond scum by mechanical or chemical means.
• Check the pH of your pond or lake and adjust as needed it should be between 6.8 and 8.6.
• Do a secchi depth reading to be sure that this is the problem. Light should penetrate no deeper than 24 inches.

In most cases, the cause of skinny fish, mosquitoes, pond scum, and lake weeds is a lack of fertility. If the pond is not fertile, phytoplankton cannot grow, and phytoplankton is needed for:

• Shading the water to keep lake weeds and pond scum from getting the light that they need to initiate growth at the bottom.
• Preventing a perfect nesting area for mosquitoes, and eliminating the cover they use to avoid being eaten by fish.
• Initiating the cycle we know as the food chain, which culminates in well fed fish.

Lake problems: The solution

In order to provide proper fertility for your pond or lake, you should first follow through on all the suggestions mentioned above, and then do the following:

Add about 8 pounds of phosphorous fertilizer per acre to the pond either by broadcasting or in a bucket with holes submerged in the water. There are pre prepaired products of this type. That should be 8 pounds of the phosphorus itself, so, for instance, if the fertilizer you use is 50% phosphorus, you would need 16 pounds of the product per acre of water. this should be done as needed to keep the secchi depth between 18 and 24 inches during the summer months. See also: Lake Fertilization

To Recap

1. Get rid of the lake weeds
2. Get rid of the pond scum
3. Check pH and modify if needed
4. Check the secchi depth
5. Fertilze the lake

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Pest prevention

Pest prevention in organic gardens is really a matter of keeping your plants healthy. Healthy plants ward off fungus, disease, and insects, and healthy plants are a result of having the right plants in the right place with the right conditions. This is accomplished by taking a few steps that most organic gardeners do instinctively. These tips for pest prevention in organic gardens can serve as a reminder for those who have been involved in organic farming for a while, and as a checklist if you are new to the craft.

Choose the right varieties

Choosing a variety of plant that is resistant to your local pests is a great first step in avoiding pest problems down the line. The right plants will favor insects which pollinate, and those that eat other insects. Talk to other gardeners and even your local county extension agent to learn what works and what doesn’t in your area.

Grouping plants according to elemental needs

Group for water and sunlight. Some plants need more sunshine than others, some need wet conditions, some need dry. Grouping your plantings according to their elemental needs will go a long way toward keeping them healthy, and free of pests.

Attention to the plants internal calender

Plant at the proper times If a plant is trying to grow in opposition to what it’s genetics are telling it to do, it will be weak and pest prone. Try to match your plantings with your season.

Soil structure

Improve soil structure Organic gardeners automatically have a head start on pest control, since organic gardening tends to have some aspects of pest prevention built-in to the process, due in large part to the emphasis on good soil structure. Loose, well aerated soil, with plenty of organic matter creates a healthy environment for plant roots

Soil fertility

Balance soil fertility Good fertility leads to healthy plants, and healthy plants are less susceptible to pests. Overly lush, over fertilized plants are easy targets for garden predators, and under fertilized plants are weak and susceptible to unwanted insects.

Soil moisture

Water properly. Properly balanced watering according to the needs of the plant, will strengthens plants, while under watering weakens plants and makes insect attacks inevitable. Over watering can cause the same problems, and create a few new pest problems in the process.

If these factors are balanced, your garden plants will be healthier, and more disease and pest resistant, thus preventing the majority of pest problems. Failing this, or if other factors have conspired to bring on a pest invasion, or if some pests just managed to get through the prevention barrier, it may be necessary to resort to pest control.

Pest control

Organic pest management methods are separated into 3 types, biological, and botanical and physical.

Biological

Biological pest control is one method suitable to organic gardening. Biological pest controls include lady bugs, spiders, praying mantis, and other bugs that feed on the insects feeding on your garden.

Botanical

Botanical pest management agents are made from plant oils and naturally occurring pyrethrins. There are products available to target and safely kill unwanted pests, but like most commercial insecticides, they will kill beneficial insects as well, so caution should be exercised.

Physical

Physical pest control is the removal of pests by hand. This is often done with a stream of water, a net, or by picking the bugs from the plant using the fingers. This method is often slow and tedious, but can be effective in many situations.

Pest prevention in organic gardens is really a matter of keeping your plants healthy. This is accomplished by taking a few steps that most organic gardeners do instinctively. These 6 tips for pest prevention in organic gardens can serve as a reminder for those who have been involved in organic farming for a while, and as a checklist if you are new to the craft.

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Balance in soil fertility and plant material

Balance in soil fertility is important for the healthy growth not only of the plants themselves, but also the soil microbes necessary for the continuation of proper soil structure and fertility. Organic growing involves the recycling of decaying plant material for soil structure and nutrients. Proper balance between the nitrogen needed for microbes to break down the decaying plant matter and the decaying plant matter itself must be maintained to continue the cycle.

Balance in variety

Variety in the insect world is needed. Insects that pollinate plants should be present in sufficient abundance pollinate the garden. Insects that eat other insects such as ladybugs, spiders, and the praying mantis perform pest control work. Some plant types ward off bugs with natural insecticides and repellents, and some, like sweet potatoes, even keep other plants and weeds away. Having a diverse selection makes success more likely.

Balance in varieties

Having the proper plant varieties, at the proper time, and in the proper places goes a long way toward the balance needed for successful organic produce production. Weak plants invite insects and disease, and plants grown out of season, or in an other situations that compromise their health will be susceptible.

Balance in soil moisture

Having the proper balance in soil moisture will aid in avoiding disease, fungus, and insects. Planting moisture loving plants at the bottom of a slope is much better than planting them at the top where water is likely to run off quickly. Moisture loving plants will languish in dry areas, and drought tolerant plants will usually suffer where there is a high level of water. Place your plants accordingly.

Balance in light

Light is important to plant growth and health. There are sun loving plants, and shade loving plants, and they should be placed accordingly. There is a good deal of variety in vegetables, so you can probably find something that will produce in almost every available spot that you choose to plant.

Balancing these factors is the key to organic home vegetable gardening. Proper balance of these elements will ward of disease, fungus, and insects, and provide optimum growing conditions for your garden plants. As in everyday life, balance is the difference between success and failure.

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Organic vegetable gardening is not some magical, mystical process attainable by only a select few gardening guru’s or former hippies living in mud huts. Organic produce can be grown in the smallest spaces, and by common people, no matter what their demographic. Organic food offers many health advantages, and growing your own organic vegetables can save a bundle of green at the market.

Gardening can be a great way to promote family unity, family wealth, and family health. Especially if done organically. It can provide education and opportunities for the growth the children as well as the vegetables. Organic gardening can save you some money by supplementing the families groceries with a fresh supply, straight from the backyard, and can even provide extra cash and a lesson in capitalism if you want to set up a temporary curbside vegetable stand for your extras, or create better neighborhood relations if you give it away to the folks down the block. Good nutrition, education, self reliance, and financial well being, all from a little plot in your backyard, and some therapeutic labor. What’s not to like about that?

Organic gardening is good for you and your family because it involves connecting with your food, eating healthy food, and healthful family activity, not to mention the benefits to your pocketbook. There are a few things that you should consider before you get started:

Things to consider before you start:

1. Find out what will grow in your area. You may want to grow citrus fruit and bananas, but if you live too far above the equator, you will find it difficult to succeed without some serious alterations. Plan your organic garden realistically with plants that grow well in your area. Find your region, and check your plants and seed to be certain that they will grow well where you live.
2. Determine the amount of light available for growing. If your garden space is walled in by high buildings, or tall trees, you may need to consider plants that love shade, or need only a few hours of sunlight per day to thrive. Attempting to grow sun-loving plants in the shade can be frustrating.
3. Decide how much space you will need for growing your organic garden, and how much space you actually have. Unless you have several acres available, growing a significant amount of most cereal grains will be out of the question. If grains are a must, consider corn grown in small blocks of space and shade loving crops between rows. There are ways to win the space war using containers and vertical gardening, So don’t let lack of space keep you from starting your garden.

Consider these ideas before you begin, draw up a plan including what plants you will use in what positions in your garden, get the supplies you need, and get started. There are very few problems you can’t overcome with the proper information and a little creativity.

Finding organic vegetable garden space

One of the biggest problems for most organic gardeners is finding space. You may have the knowledge, you may have the experience, you may have the tools and materials for a fantastic organic garden, but if you can’t find the space to get your plants in the ground or containers, your garden is just a dream. Don’t let the dream fade! There are many ways to find the space for your vegetables even if your space seems limited. You just have to think outside the box, and in more than one dimension.

Get rid of your lawn

If you have a lawn, get rid of it, or at least enough of it to grow your garden. Lawns are resource hogs, so why not make that space work for you and turn part of yours into a garden.

Well maintained lawns were once the domain of the wealthy, but at some point in the last half of the last century home lawns for middle class Americans became the standard. It is safe to say that Americans spend more on lawn care annually than on any other aspect of home maintenance.

Lawns require a lot of resources. These resources are in the form of water, fertilizer, pesticides, equipment and labor and the cost can be enormous. The average lawn size, front and back, is about a quarter acre. The average monthly cost for lawn care is somewhere in the neighborhood of $200.00 per month, or $2,400.00 per year. The average first time home buyer never considers this cost until the mowing starts.

Typically, 30 to 60 pounds each of nitrogen and phosphorous are applied to the home lawn in a year, along with an unmeasurable quantity of herbicide and insecticide, and irrigation amounts are somewhere around 60 inches per season, and labor time comes in at 10 hours or more per month during the growing season. All of this to have a pretty, green showplace for your neighbors to admire.

There is a way you can avoid some of these expenses, and even get a pay off. Yes, a pay off!

Simply get rid of that resource draining lawn and raise a garden in it’s place! Instead of spending all that time and money on growing grass, grow something that will save you money at the supermarket. It is good for the environment, good for your health, and good for your pocketbook.

You don’t even have to do it all at once. If you are afraid of suffering lawn withdrawal you can get rid of a section at a time. Once you get started, you will probably not stop until your lawn is all gone and your pantry all full!

Replace your landscape

Use the space that your landscape plants now occupy. Remove those old non productive shrub hedges and plant attractive peppers, cabbages, kale, squash, sweet potatoes or other plants in their place. In some parts of the country, there are native dwarf fruit trees that might be suitable replacements for standard landscape bed plants, and fruiting vines that could be trained on a trellis to add variety if you want to use perennials.

Use fruit and nut trees

Replace small to medium decorative trees with fruit trees. Fruit trees are attractive additions to home landscapes. If you are just starting to landscape a new place, instead of using the standard dooryard or shade trees, use a nut tree native to the area. The magnificent pecan tree makes both a great and attractive shade tree, and is the source of a delicious high oil, high protein nut perfect for human consumption. There are dozens of other choices, and one is just right for your area.

Patio gardening

Consider building a raised bed on part of your patio, or using your patio as a container garden. You can even build shelves or racks to increase available space. This is a great spot for a raised bed, or a cold frame which can also be a hot bed for extending your growing season at both ends of the calender. A pergola over the top can serve as a great arbor for fruit and vegetable vines, which brings me to my next suggestion:

Take your garden to new heights

Get out of the box, and start thinking of gardening on a different plane. Go vertical instead of just horizontal. Grow vine plants on a trellis, wire, arbor, or your fence. You can even line your wooden fence with racks and shelves for container plants. Think vertical, and grow your garden to new heights!

Find more vegetable garden information here!

I am sure you can think of other unusual ways of finding space, creating space, or making better use of available space for your gardening project, just don’t let conventionality get in the way of your healthy organic vegetable garden, and be sure to share your thoughts, ideas, tips, and suggestions on gardening in our comment section.

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You may get a break from lawn or pasture mowing for a few months during the winter, but that does not mean you should do nothing at all. Put on your rubber boots, and some thick gloves, and get started on the winter pasture management tips mentioned below. There are probably already a thousand things you do to get your pasture or meadow into shape before the spring, adding these to the list will add to your bottom line. Don’t forget to add your tips at the bottom in our comment section.

Weed out the weeds

If you have patches and tufts of thick clover, or other perennials growing in your lawn or pasture this winter, and your chief crop is not clover or other perennials, but lawn or pasture grass, winter affords you a good opportunity to do something about the problem. A non selective herbicide can be applied while the lawn or pasture grasses are dormant, and this will prevent the need for using a selective herbicide when the grass starts to turn green and you realize the problem exists. If you do this, do not think that using more than the label suggests will assure better results, because it will not. What you could end up with instead is a patch of bare ground due to “salting out” the spot, so follow those label directions, and avoid the problem. Remember, the label is the law!

Prepare for the running of the bull thistles

In many areas of the south, early spring brings on a crop of bull thistles, so if you intend to do anything about them, you should start planning for it now.If you had a small thistle crop last year, you will likely have a much larger one this year, and they are much easier to treat when young and tender, before the stalks start to show. Having the right chemical on hand, or enough manpower if you want to do it manually, for immediate treatment when the conditions are just right may mean the difference between getting rid of them altogether, or having an even bigger problem the following year. Order your chemicals, or start enlisting friends now!

Increase your pasture size without increasing property taxes

Winter can also be a great time for removing brush, weeds, and rubble. Most pastures and meadows I see could almost double in usable space just by cleaning up fence rows. Imagine adding from a 25 to 100% more hay or grazing area to your property simply by “taking out the trash”! You probably already fertilize the area, so stop fertilizing the weeds, and take advantage of the expansion.

Equip yourself

Get your equipment into the shop, and make sure that everything is in tip top condition. It is always a pain in the rear to go to start a tractor and find that it won’t crank to save your life. This can cause you to lose momentum and valuable time. There are fluids to check, batteries to test, minor repairs to be made, and lubricating and sharpening to be done. While you’re at it, check your power and hand tools as well. You may need that chainsaw to clear some brush, and if your shovel is missing, you should know that before it is time to use it.

Your turn

There are hundreds of things to do in preparation for spring, these 4 tips are just the tip of the iceberg. You probably have some great ones yourself, and since we shared with you, it’s only fair that you share with us and the other readers. Write a comment containing your favorite tip in the comment section below this article, and help someone else.

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Storage sheds can be built from materials that might not be practical for larger buildings. Of course, they can be built from standard building materials as well. I have seen brick and stone buildings built for the sole purpose of storage, and while that is nice if it fits your overall look, and you are willing to spend the money, it is not necessary in most cases. There are cheaper materials available which can be coordinated with most other building materials and landscapes.

Plastic sheds

Plastic sheds can be molded, or extruded. Plastic sheds offer a measure of style and versatility, as well as an added level of durability for the shed buyer, and they can be watertight. The earliest plastic models suffered from ultraviolet rays which produced some brittleness and powdering, but newer generations have suffered much less from this problem. Plastic sheds can be made as horizontal boxes for storing small equipment like patio and pool tools, as well as standard gardening tools. They can be vertical buildings more akin to standard storage buildings as well.

Vinyl sheds

Vinyl sheds, are closely related to plastic sheds in material, and wood sheds in construction. They work well for common uses, and can be built to match most home siding without interfering with the overall aesthetic.

Wooden sheds

Wood sheds are excellent as garden sheds. They can fit into all types of surroundings from ultra modern to aged Japanese tea rooms for more detailed gardens, and as long as they are properly maintained, they will last a lifetime. Do not underestimate the need for maintenance. You should be prepared to clean and reseal the building once a year, or at least every 18 months.

Metal sheds

Metal sheds are durable and last a long time with little maintenance. Of the different types available, steel sheds with galvanized primed and painted sheet steel are some of the best values on the market. Many have as much as a 25 year warranty on rust through, and most will last much longer without problems. Minimum maintenance can easily expand the life of such buildings beyond that of their users.

Shed plans are easily available, so are kits, or if you are not the do it yourself type, the prices for such buildings are already pretty low.

What is the best shed material for you?

The best shed material for you and your shed depends mostly on what you want and need, and it’s intended use.  Do a little research, and find out what will work best in your situation before you jump in. You can find a lot of information right here on this site.

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