Category Archives: Land Management

Pest Control Brush Weeds Rubble Clean Up

Pest Control Brush Weeds Rubble Clean Up

Part two in our pest prevention series.

To control pests through prevention the very best way to start is by clearing your property of the things that encourage pests. Simple, right? Weedy brushy areas are both cover and breeding grounds for pests.

Weeds

Weeds provide food for bugs and rodents. Mice like seed. Weeds have seed. Mice like weeds! Simple as that. The complexities of what each bug and rodent likes to eat, and how the interaction between all of them produces this buggy, weedy community would be out of place here, so let’s just say that weeds attract insects and rodents seeking food. Weeds also attract insects and rodents who seek cover from predators. So, between the food, and the shelter, weeds make a pretty happy hunting ground and breeding ground for small annoying creatures.

Naturally, the question comes up: “If they like weeds so much why don’t they just stay there and out of my kitchen?” The answer is simple: They think you may have a better life for them.

Brush

Fence Row Brush

Brush mixed with weeds is a sign that property is not maintained well. It usually means that it was cleared once, and has not been maintained or used since it was cleared. This makes for a more advanced pest community, and, yes, if you live nearby, they will advance to your doorstep! Clearing your property of such problem areas will advance your pest control program beyond what exterminators can offer.

Brush and weeds are not normal growth

A patch of brush and weeds is not a native habitat, it is the early stage of something that might become a forest in 30 years, but what it grows is rarely natural or native. Such situations are created by humans by accident, and rarely produce native plants in abundance. The only wildlife that is attracted to such an area is the type of wildlife attracted to other forms of human waste and garbage. Saving such areas in the name of saving the environment is not realistic. From my experience, what grows in cleared areas that are not maintained is almost always non native, biodiversity attacking, invasive and a threat to the surrounding natural environment.

Rubble

Rubble and rubbish are a big problem. These stacks and piles offer ideal homes for rodents, and the resulting snakes that feed on them. They also provide food and shelter for insects that would like to spend some time in your kitchen.

Roaches and decaying wood

The natural food of the roach is wet decaying wood. If you have piles or stacks of it around your place, you will eventually have roaches who will attempt to come inside your home for something a little more tasty. When they get inside, the roach population will grow commensurate with the availability of food. It doesn’t require a truly dirty home, a drop of grease will feed thousands of the little disease spreaders. Getting rid of rubble will eliminate most of the threat.

General cleanup

Things like tires, and buckets, disused pet food and watering bowls, and the old moon hubcap that you planned to build a truck around someday provide luxury accommodations for mosquitoes to reproduce. If you remove these things from your property, or store them properly, it will go a long way to solving problems with mosquitoes.

What to do

My advice is to clean it up. If you keep fire wood, stack it on a wood rack, preferably a foot or more off the ground. This will both preserve the wood, and prevent a lot of little things from becoming a big problem. If you have brushy weedy areas on your property, take an ax to the brush, and mow the weeds. Then keep it mowed.

Habitats

If your goal is to have a backyard habitat, work on the brush and weeds selectively. Get rid of the weeds by mowing them, unless there is a patch of truly native plant life that you want to save. Get rid of non native, invasive plants that will eventually take over if left to their own devices. Nurture and encourage the remaining native plant life, and you will be surprised at the results.

See part three in our pest prevention series: How Lawn Care Effects Pest Control

Mowing Options Chemical Mowing

Mowing Options Chemical Mowing

Land Management Mowing options chemical mowing

Mowing can be a chore, 10 acres of mowing can take a lot of your valuable time, or a lot of money to hire someone to do it for you.

There are alternatives to mowing, even options that might make you a little extra spending cash. This option will cost money, but it will cost a lot less than the mowing option, and leave wildlife in place, while giving your watch and your wallet a little relief. That option is chemical mowing, and before you decide to reject it outright because of environmental concerns, you should read the rest of this page.

What is chemical mowing and trimming?

Chemical mowing and trimming are the terms used to describe the process of treating weeds and weedy grasses with a chemical to inhibit growth. Mowing chemically retards the growth of the plant, while still allowing it to provide erosion protection.

Many fence rows are adjacent to highway right of ways, and killing the grasses present may not be a good option, but suppressing the growth will save hours of backbreaking labor.

A proper treatment, with proper chemicals at the proper time, can virtually eliminate mowing and trimming for an entire growing season with as few as two treatments per year. Comparing this to the cost of mowing and trimming such areas, it is a real bargain.

Chemical mowing and the environment

A very good argument can also be made, that chemical mowing of pasture type areas has environmental advantages over mechanical mowing. There is less debris in the runoff to clog drainage, and less harm to wildlife living in such areas. Chemical mowing does not destroy the cover used by wildlife, it merely slows it down, ground nesting birds, and small mammals and reptiles living in the area can carry on as though nothing had happened, instead of being chopped to bits by a mower.

Chemical mowing products

Preventive growth regulators

The first class of chemicals is “pgr’s” these are preventive growth regulators. Most of these work by miniaturizing the plant, and can produce some amazing results both in growth rate, and lawn quality. What is the downside? These chemicals normally reduce wear tolerance, and are pretty expensive.

Systemic herbicides

The second class is systemic herbicide, used in lighter than normal dosages. salts of glyphosate are a good example. Most 41% glyphosate products are labeled for this use, and instructions on the proper methods and mixtures are included.

Chemical mowing and yellowing

One thing that you should be prepared for if you choose to use chemical mowing, is the fact that there will be some yellowing of the treated grasses. Usually the amount of yellowing that you are prepared to put up with will help you to determine the amount of time that the treatment will be of benefit. The yellowing can be overcome by fertilization.

Chemical mowing: Other uses:

If you are not comfortable with treating an entire lawn, or pasture, you can still use this process to chemically trim around walks, the edges of buildings and around such items as posts, fences, and trees. A light dose of a growth regulator around the base of a tree can help avoid such things as “Mower or trimmer blight” caused by the destructive forces of trimmer string or mower decks contacting the tree and taking off bark.

Chemical vegetation control in highway right of ways, should only be practiced by properly licensed individuals or companies.

See also: Chemical Trimming and Land Management Mowing Alternatives For Large Acreage