After you buy or build your storage building, there will still be a little work to do from time to time. There will come a time when you will need to perform maintenance and minor repairs. This section will guide you through the basic process and offer information on setting up a preventive maintenance program that will not eat all your spare time.

Whatever material your storage building is made of, it will last longer and serve you better with preventive maintenance checks and good maintenance practices. Maintenance is the life of your storage shed.

Storage shed preventive maintenance

First and foremost, prevention is the key to any good maintenance program. This should start at the very beginning of the process. Your choice of materials will set the pace for your maintenance needs in the future. Some materials are just more durable than others, but some of the less durable materials may be needed to fit some applications. Other preventive measures would include things like avoiding tool and equipment dings, dents, and damage which can compromise the integrity of the structure.

Storage shed materials

It is just hard to avoid the fact that galvanized and painted steel will outlast wood or composite sidings. It is not a sales tactic, it is just the truth. It is also true that such materials will require less maintenance over the extended life of the building than their wood and composite counter parts. These are just the facts. Knowing this to be true, makes choosing material based on ease and longevity a ‘no brainer”. However, ease and longevity are not the only factors in choosing a building or the materials used to build it.

Other factors may include, appearance, price, and local restrictions. Sometimes it may be necessary to blend an additional feature such as a shed with the home and landscape, and in such cases, wood may be the best choice. Budget restraints may make wood or composite siding the initial best choice, although the additional maintenance costs over several years will probably make the steel siding a more economical choice in the long run. Home Owners Associations seem to prefer wooden structures over metal structures, so if you have a HOA where you live, you may have little choice in the matter. Whatever the reason, wood and composite sidings will require a higher level of maintenance.

Metal storage shed preventive maintenance

Maintenance for metal sheds is simple. Once a year, or more often if you like, you should perform the following inspection and follow up:

Debris

Keep the top free of debris like tree limbs. Such things can cause a build up of organic materials that can add stress to the structure. Denting or sagging could result, and water damage could be a consequence.

Cleaning

Give the building a good cleaning to remove grime. Use a mild detergent with no abrasives.

Touch up

During the cleaning process you may have noted some scratches or dings to the siding. In such cases, let the spot dry completely, and then use a little oil based paint matching your color to touch up those spots.

Level

Check the building to be sure it is level. The first indication of this will probably be sticking doors. If the doors should become “sticky” between annual inspections, check the structure with a spirit level, and adjust it as needed.

Fasteners

Tighten or replace loose or missing screws. This will help to avoid water and wind damage. check with a nut driver and tighten as needed. The addition of a small amount of silica sealer to the threads of screws that were extremely loose may help to prevent this in the future.

Wooden storage shed preventive maintenance

Wood rot occurs only in the presence of moisture. There is no such thing as dry root, If wood is dry and rotting, water was present at some point to initiate the rot, and the rotting will stop once the moisture is removed.

Knowing this, we can understand that the most significant danger to a wood or composite structure is moisture, so preventing moisture is our main objective. This simply means, that we need to keep the wooden surfaces from being penetrated by moisture by sealing them with paint or sealer and caulk. Some woods are resistant to moisture damage, but even these will benefit from proper sealing.

Once a year, your wooden or composite structure should be:

• Inspected
• Leveled
• Cleaned
• Re-sealed

This is the best preventive maintenance possible. Special attention should be paid to any openings in the structure such as doors, windows, and vents, as these are usually the primary entrance points for rain or irrigation water, and the first places to show signs of damage. Look for discoloration around the frames of the openings, and seal with caulk or weatherstrip, whichever is needed. This should be done whether it appears to be needed or not. All joints should be re-caulked, and all surfaces should get a coat of paint or sealer. Shingles should be inspected and replaced if needed. Doing this consistently will add years of life to your wooden shed.

Vinyl storage shed preventive maintenance

All of the applicable points for wood and metal sheds should be taken into account with vinyl sheds. They should be cleaned, sealed, and leveled at least once per year.

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Happy Holidays From Home And Garden Press

What is the difference between "live Christmas trees", and "living Christmas trees"?

Live or Living?

When you read an ad for "live Christmas trees", what the advertiser usually means is that the trees were once alive, that is, that the trees were once living until the chainsaw came down the row. There is nothing wrong with that, but there is another type of live Christmas tree that is really a living Christmas tree, and not a cut tree. These are trees that are planted in a container, and you will probably have to buy them from your local nursery, and not the tree lot or hardware store.

Living Christmas trees

Depending on where you live, there is probably a perfect living Christmas tree that will grow well in your area. Some great things about using a living Christmas tree are:

• The tree will not dry out because it is alive, and you will be watering to keep it alive.
• Cost. You will not have to buy a new tree for several years. The tree will be there for the next year.
• When the tree becomes too large to use as a Christmas tree, it will be an attractive addition to your landscape.
• You will be improving the environment.

Live Christmas Tree Type

In my part of the world, Virginia Juniper is a very common evergreen. These dark green, naturally cone shaped evergreens grow wild in most parts of the southeastern United States. Don't worry if they don't grow in your area, there is always some evergreen that grows native to your area that will provide an excellent alternative. It is important that you choose a native plant for several reasons, but the most important one is that you want it to survive from year to year in your climate.

Most nurseries supply container trees in many varieties, and you will probably want to purchase one in a 5 gallon container or larger. After the first year, check to see if the plant is becoming root bound, and if it is, transplant it into the next larger size container. Do this as soon after the holidays as possible, so that the tree will be well rooted into the new mix by the next season. Continue to check and up size if needed each year until the whole thing is too big for your indoor space, By that time, you will have decided on a suitable outdoor spot to plant the evergreen, and you can start all over again.

Climate and transition

Depending mostly on your climate, you may need to allow your tree to become acclimated to the weather conditions outdoors before removing it after the Christmas season. It can be moved into a less heated room, like a garage, or an unheated greenhouse in most areas, although in some areas, it may need to spend some time in a heated greenhouse, before moving into an unheated one. You know your climate, and probably have a pretty good idea how to make the transition in your area.

Living Christmas trees might be just the thing to liven up your holiday experience, and eventually, even your landscape!

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A well planned landscape can save you lots of money. A lousy one can cost you lots of money.

Whether you hire a landscaper to install your lawn and landscape, or do it yourself, there are some things you should give close attention to aside from the standard design principles commonly followed today. These tips will help to "green" your lawn and landscape, and keep some green in your wallet.

Soil type and irrigation

What could be more green than saving one of our most important natural resources; water? If you have a heavy clay soil, and you want to grow almost any of our common lawn grasses, you should be certain that the soil is amended properly, or top soil added.

If this is not done, you will be at constant odds with mother nature and your pocketbook when the heat of summer arrives. The best practice for lawn grass irrigation is to water deeply, and infrequently, but if you have hard clay soils, and nothing else to absorb and hold the water for the plants, you will have to water more often, using less water each time to achieve similar results. If you attempt to water deeply on clay soils, the result will be excess runoff. When watering more frequently to avoid runoff, you will still need to have the same amount of water, but it will have to be broken up into several smaller increments. Either way, the water used is less efficient. You will lose water to runoff, or evaporation, neither of which is desirable, and in some places, it is even considered criminal!

To avoid this problem, you need to start before the landscape and lawn are installed, or renovated.

Make sure that there is sufficient top soil to become an adequate root zone for your lawn grasses and landscape beds. Plan your irrigation layout carefully to avoid having tree watering or bed watering on the same station with lawn watering. Each of these will require differing amounts of water, and you could end up drowning one type of plant while allowing the others to die of thirst! Be certain that your landscape beds are not built in a basin, and that they have good surface drainage, otherwise the plants being used could suffocate from excessive watering. Be sure to clump your plantings according to water needs and water use. Landscaping is more than just making a drawing, and choosing plants, it involves the proper placement of the plants to achieve the best combination of growing conditions.

Plant and bed placement tips

This tip will help you to save money, and "green" up your homes pest control program: When designing landscape beds, leave yourself a foot or more of space between the plants and the home. Do the same with bark mulch. That extra foot of space between your walls and plants can mean the difference between a full blown insect insurgency, and a healthy symbiotic relation between the great outdoors and the insect and mold free comfort of your indoor living space.

Pests use plants and bark mulch as a covered highway onto and into your home. The further you can keep these 2 elements from your exterior walls the better. You would probably be surprised at the difference just a few inches of space can make when it comes to insects. Instead of using the mulch between the plants and the foundation, try digging a trench, and adding coarse sand with pebbles on top. Tunneling insects like termites will find the sand and pebbles impossible to make a tunnel without having it cave in behind them. Other types of insects will see the space as being a cover-less dead end, and  and you will save yourself a lot of money on pest treatments in the long run.

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I am asked from time to time if it is possible to grow grapes in (insert whatever region of the country you live in) this region. The answer is almost always yes! That should be a qualified yes, the qualifier being: If you want to badly enough.

In my region, almost any variety of grapes you can imagine existed here before settlers arrived, and that basically means that growing almost any variety of grape vine is possible. The same cannot be said for all other regions. There are some areas where growing grapes could be an extreme gardening venture, especially if the climate is extremely cold, but with enough work, the season can be extended, and the grape vines will produce.

Growing grapes requires a lot of attention to detail, and a lot of work, and can be difficult for even the most efficient gardener, and it helps to have a guide to go by. The guide that I suggest is The Complete Grape Growing System by Danie Wium.

A complete system

The system is complete, in that it takes you through the entire grape vine growing process from beginning to end, with practical details on soil preparation, taking and using cuttings, boosting grape production with proper pruning and training techniques, building a trellis or arbor, and even pest and disease control.

It is about grape growing

There are many growing guides that cover a wide variety of fruit crops, but most of them are pretty light when it comes to grape growing information, and none of them compare with the in depth information provided in the The Complete Grape Growing System.

It is a system

Growing grapes requires thorough attention to the proper details in the proper order. That requires a system. The Complete Grape Growing System puts everything in it's proper place, removing the guess work from the equation. In short, you simply follow the instructions, and produce grapes!

This system works with any type of grape you want to grow, whether that is for wine grapes, or table grapes, grapes for eating fresh from the vine, or grapes for making jams and jellies.

This system is the most comprehensive system on the market, and if you plan to do any serious grape growing it is a must have.

The price is reasonable as well, and what you will save in time, materials, and frustration will easily pay for it at the first harvest.

We don't review many products, and we review even fewer information products, but we are so impressed with this one that we couldn't let the opportunity pass. If you are serious about gardening, and serious about growing grapes, this should have a place in your gardening literature!

Learn more about this product

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Part six in our pest prevention series

Homes have holes. Lots and lots of them. To keep pests out, you need to seal these holes. Homes have vents, and while these should not be sealed, they should be made inaccessible to insects and rodents.

Sealing your home against pests

It is a necessary fact of life. You have to breathe. Stop doing it for more than a couple of minutes, and you are a goner! Your home has to breathe too, and In order to breathe, in order to allow entry for pipes and cables, in order to vent heat and harmful gases, there have to be openings in a home. This is a list of the primary openings in a home, that is the important ones that are there for a reason. There may be others, like places that have separated over years of settling, cracks, and openings that were made for repairs, or made inadvertently over the years. Check your home closely for these.

Vents

• Attic Vents: For dissipating heat.
• Soffit Vents: For dissipating heat.
• Plumbing Vents: For dissipating fumes and allowing the air needed for proper function of drainage systems.
• Range vents: For dissipating the heat and smoke from cooking.
• Hot gas vents for ventilating the hot gases from gas hot water heaters.
• Dryer vents for dissipating the hot air from clothes dryers.
• Fan vents, for removing nuisance odors from bathrooms.
• Weep holes are small vents for allowing the drainage and drying of condensate from natural heating and cooling in the walls of your home, to prevent mold.

Other possible pest openings

Power, communication, and transmission lines and pipes

• Air Conditioning Condensate drains: Very often, these are small copper pipes through the walls of the home. These allow the removal of moisture from air conditioning units.
• Plumbing pipe openings: Allowing plumbing into your home; In most cases today, this is done through the floor of the concrete slab, but sometimes in other areas for homes on blocks or pier and beam construction.
• Electrical lines. To allow electricity transmission: These are most often at the upper portion of an outside wall.
• Cable communications lines: For satellite or cable line entry: The location can vary.

A home with out some forms of ventilation would soon destroy itself. A home without electricity, plumbing and communication would not be much fun!

So, how do we accommodate all these holes in our homes, and still keep little critters out? Well, that is what this is about.

How to close the border to pests

Vents

Before central heat and air, there were devices in homes to allow for the adjustment of temperature through the use of ventilation. We still have them in most homes today where they often serve as nothing more than vestiges of the ancient past. These were known as windows. Often the doors were used for the same purpose in the summer.

How did they manage to open these ventilation devices without allowing bugs in? This was accomplished through window and door screens. Taking a lesson from the past, we might consider the use of screens over the vents. Most home builders now screen vents, but there is always a chance, and you should check yours. Sometimes some are omitted by accident. I have seen a number of cases where rodents gained entry through dryer vents, and then chewed through the vent hose to get to the cheese and crackers. Write yourself a note to periodically check these vent screens for clogging.

Protecting other potential openings for pests

Other entry routes into the home, pipes and cables, will need to be sealed using another ancient technology: Caulk. A tube of high quality caulk is one of the best tools in home pest prevention. Seal around those entries on the outside of your home. Even the very small cracks and holes. You might be surprised just how small an insect or a rodent can become when it is hungry, thirsty, hot dry, wet or cold. When you are done with the outside of your home, you are not done!

Sealing indoors for pest prevention

On the inside of your house, you should do the same thing. Give special attention to plumbing drains. Very often a box was used to to form around the bathroom piping for the plumbers to make all the connections. If this area is not filled before the walls are completed, there will be exposed soil on the inside of the wall. Most pre-treatments for termites will lower the chances of anything coming into the home through these openings, but occasionally some do. If you have easy access to these areas through a pipe chase, filling the area with mortar or some other hardening substance is a good option, if not, the first time that a repair is made to your plumbing requiring a plumber to open up the wall, you might be able to do it. Otherwise, make sure that the inside wall is sealed well.

Caulking and sealing indoors

• Caulking around doors and windows, inside and out should be checked, and resealed if needed.
• Door sweeps should be checked and replaced if they do not reach the floor, or do not go all the way to the edges of the door.
• All weather-stripping around doors and windows should be checked.
• All screen doors should be in good order with no holes. The same is true of window screens. Look for a good fit. Check the window surface to surface seals where they open, make sure the seal is tight enough that the bugs can't crawl between.

Caulked pest entry point

If you have followed the other guidelines in this pest prevention series, the numbers of pests trying to get into your home will be few. If you will now seal your home as described here, you will have prevented the overwhelming majority of the remaining pests from entering, and are well on your way to a pest free home. The next section is an overview with some added common sense tips for home pest prevention.

See part seven in our pest prevention series!

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I don't know about you, but I prefer to be comfortable, and the thought of sweltering, or freezing when it is not absolutely necessary doesn't make me too happy. Nor does constantly unplugging appliances when not in use, or taking cold showers, or short showers as a way of saving money at home. There are better ways. So, listen up, this can save you money! Each of these individual tasks can save money, together, they can save a lot of money.

Seal your home

Sealing your home is one of the best ways of saving money on energy costs, and can also save money on pest control. There are dozens of other reasons to properly seal your home, like dust and allergens. The cost is very low, the amount of time it uses is very small, and the payoff can be huge! It just makes sense to do it. See also: Energy Cost Savings Sealing And Insulating

Practice pest prevention

Instead of spending all that money on annual pest control contracts, take the time, and make the effort to practice pest prevention, and only call out the exterminator when he is needed to control an unusual pest problem. Good pest prevention practices will eliminate most of your pest problems, and help with saving money at home. See also: Preventive Maintenance Program Pest Control and Pest Control and management

Use best lawn practices

Think outside the lawn, and create a backyard wildlife habitat. It will cost you very little to get started, it will help to decrease your pest population, and save money on annual lawn care costs. Even if you decide not to go native with your lawn care, using the proper lawn care techniques and practices; not bagging clippings, and proper mowing timetables, will still save a significant amount of money on fertilizers and pesticides. See also: Lawn management

Storage buildings

Saving money at home is a matter of thinking things through. For instance, if you are renting from a self storage, or public storage business, you could probably save a lot of money in the long run by building or buying a storage building for your back yard. It makes little sense to store $500.00 worth of material for 10 years at a rate of $1,200.00 per year, when you could have it safely tucked away in a storage building in your backyard. Building a storage building can be accomplished with a minimum of labor and material expense, buying one from a dealer at a slightly higher cost is still better than paying eternal rent, and even buying one through a rent to own program, although it is more expensive than purchasing it outright, will save money over renting forever! See also: Outdoor structures and Renting Or Owning Storage Space

Most of our topics cover saving money at home as a matter of course. Please feel free to look around and pick out the ones that best suit your needs.

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As per the newest FCC regulations requiring notification if an online review is done for payment of any type, I now notify you that I have no ties to the company mentioned in this product review monetarily or otherwise! The only remuneration to either party was my payment in buying the product!

A builder friend of mine once told me that it was almost perverse how he felt about a good, well made tool. Those of you who like to build and work know what he was talking about, and the rest of you probably won't be reading this article through anyway. A well made tool that functions as intended, is a work of art!

It is not very often that I directly recommend a product, but this one is a little different, and the price was great, so I thought I would share this while the price is still great. I can't imagine this set being at this price forever.

I recently found myself in need of a new cordless drill, and went to look at the myriad of products available on the market. I wanted to get a professional model, and, and I thought I might also like to get some type of set with more than one tool, so I went shopping. What I found was almost too much to handle. Not having shopped for tools in some time, I was almost bewildered by the selection at every hardware place I visited. I took some notes, and went home to do some comparison before I went in for the kill.

Battery size

The variables are insane, especially when you consider battery size. That is where I started, and after sifting through tons of data, I have come to think that 18 volts is about standard for a professional quality cordless tool. Anything smaller is just not up to the work, and anything larger is more than needed, and probably too heavy and bulky for consistent use. I think it is the battery size that the industry will eventually settle on as standard. So, 18 volts it is.

This greatly decreased the number of choices and the stress level!

Battery type

The battery I chose was the NiCad type, because my experience with them has been pretty good, and the expense of lithium ion batteries puts it a little above where I want to reach.

This reduced the stress level a little more!

Country of origin

I wanted to get something that was American made if plausible, I prefer American made products, but I am not an idiot, a superior product at a better price will tempt me to go foreign. In this case, there was no temptation. I was surprised to find, that in this case, the American made product was both superior and cheaper than it's European or Asian counterparts.

After a lot of study and handling to check heft and balance, and quite a bit of price checking, I settled on one set, the Porter Cable Cordless 4 tool 18 volt NiCad combination tool kit # PC418C-2

The price

This particular set was only about $70.00 higher than the drill motor alone, and came with a circular saw, a reciprocating saw, a long lasting, high power light, (How many times have you needed one of those on the job?) the drill motor itself, 2 NiCad batteries, a quick charger, and a soft carry case for $159.00 and some change.

The specs

The Porter Cable Cordless 4 tool 18 volt NiCad combination tool kit # PC418C-2 consists of:

• PC1800D Drill Driver
• PC186CS Circular Saw
• PC1800RS Reciprocating Saw
• PC1800L Flashlight.
• 2 NiCad batteries
• 1 charger (quick charge)
• I carry all soft case

Power

I won't go into the power details, except to say that after running the system through the ringer, I found it to be more than sufficient for any purpose. A typical day involves a lot of work that drained most of the similar tools I have used in the past. These were comfortable for the entire time, and never seemed to be in a bind for power.

The batteries

The battery power was better than expected, and honestly I never ran them down before I was able to recharge. I am not sure what the duration of the charge is, but it was plenty.

The lithium ion batteries, and the nicad batteries are interchangeable on these tools.

I would love to give the lithium ion batteries a try, so, Porter Cable, if you are reading this...

In all seriousness though, if you have tried the lithium ion batteries on this set, give us a comment to let everybody know what it's like.

The charger

The charger will give a full charge in about an hour. The rules are a little different, and a partial charge can be done without damaging the power cell. It is not necessary to run the battery all the way down to charge it back up.

I would be interested to try the lithium ion batteries to see if there is an improvement, but the lithium ion pack was a little too pricey for me. If I ever get a chance to try them out, I well let you know about it in an update.

Porter Cable

I noticed that Porter Cable and Delta have now joined forces, and I am not sure how that will change the products, probably little for this type of tool. I do, however expect great things from the merger.

The Porter Cable tools that I remember most are the metal cased tools that were popular when I was a young man, admittedly some time ago. They were always comfortable, powerful,well balanced, and even attractive. These cordless tools make a good addition to an already great line.

See photos of tool kit: Porter Cable 4 Piece Cordless Tool Kit: Pics

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To control pests, like everything else, the best form of control is prevention. Preventive pest control provides a solid base for your entire pest control system, and, if carried out properly, will provide almost all the pest control you will need.

What to check 0utside your home

Frequency: Monthly

1. Check the outside areas of your property for weeds and brush.

2. Check for trash, rubble, and debris. These provide cover and food for insects and rodents. Remove anything found.

3. Check all containers like bird baths, pet food or pet watering bowls for stagnant water, and left over food. If you are feeding more than your pet needs, you are inviting predators to dine on your lawn. If you leave standing water, you are inviting mosquitoes to breed.

4. Check for puddles, and standing water. If you find any, be certain to make and execute plans to provide permanent drainage.

5. Check the effectiveness of your mowing program. Look for the presence of thatch. If the grass is getting a little too high between mowings, you may need to add an extra mowing day. High grass and thatch allow insects and rodents to move undetected in your lawn, and allows weeds time to mature and replant themselves. See also: Lawn Mowing Tips Mower Size Lawn Mowing Tips Mowing Frequency Lawn And Garden: Less Lawn More Garden

6. Check for tree limbs, shrubs, vines, and landscape plants touching your home. Trim them back if they are. They provide a roadway for insects to get onto, and into your house.

7. Check for holes, cracks, and poorly sealed plumbing, electrical, and communication line openings, and seal any you find with caulk or other appropriate materials.

8. Check doors and windows to be sure that screens fit tightly, that the caulking joints are in good order, and that weatherstripping and sweeps are are not letting light, and pests through.

9. After these steps have been taken, any outdoor pests remaining can be treated with the appropriate insecticides and herbicides. There should be few if any, if the above steps were taken correctly.

What to check inside your home

1. Check all entries corresponding to those outside, such as cable, plumbing, and electrical entry, and door and window frames. Make any repairs needed.

2. Make sure that the inside of your home is clean, free of clutter, and free of food crumbs.

3. Look for signs of insects and rodent entry and activity such as feces, and gnawing marks. Use traps for rodents before using rodenticides if at all possible. Use insecticides sparingly if needed, and then only according to label directions.

See also: Home Pest Control Theories and Practices and Home Mosquito Control And Prevention

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The number of wooden or composite surfaced homes built in the United states is much smaller than fifty years ago, but there are still some being built. Outbuildings, like garden sheds, utility buildings, cabanas, and storage buildings are often built with wood or wood composite materials, which require a little extra attention to keep them looking good and functioning properly. A planned maintenance schedule for preventative maintenance can increase the life and functionality of any structure, and this is nowhere more of a truth than with wood or composite structures.

Even if your building is covered mostly with brick, there are still wooden areas that need your attention. The most likely spots are the upper portions of the gable ends, the soffit, and facia boards.

Preventing moisture is the key

Moisture is the enemy of wood. To preserve your wooden structure, you need to prevent moisture from getting into the wood. This is accomplished with paint, stain, or some other type of wood preservative, to seal the moisture out. The edges and ends are most susceptible. The will need extra protection where they are exposed, or joined. This is the job of caulking and trim.

Build a planned maintenance schedule

The best way to go about this is to have a schedule for cleaning, painting and sealing your wooden building. This is best done once a year, or at least every 18 months. This may seem like a lot, but you are dealing with the life of your structure, so it is important.

Wood structure preventative maintenance checklist and tips

Please follow the order listed below. If you caulk the building, and then realize you need to level it, your caulking may separate when the building is being leveled.

• Check the building for levelness. Do this first.
• Check for wood to ground contact and correct this.
• Check for termite trails on the sides of any concrete blocks.
• Scrape off any loose paint. Completely clean the entire building exterior. This is important for finding potential problems, and for assuring a clean surface that your coating will adhere to.
• Check for missing or damaged shingles.
• Remove any brush, limbs, or other debris.
• Check the edges of the eves and overhangs to make sure that there is nothing rotting there. If there is any potential damage from moisture in this area, you should consider adding, or extending metal flashing.
• Check directly under the roof, where it contacts the outside of the building, caulk any places where there are gaps.
• Check the corners of the building, look for gaps, and caulk accordingly.
• Check around doors, and windows.
• Check the door and window weather stripping.
• Check the siding, and caulk any exposed nail or screw holes.
• Apply your paint, stain, or wood preservative only when these other steps have been taken, and the building is clean and dry.

If you have a planned maintenance schedule, and practice preventative maintenance, it will increase the longevity of your building, and the building will stay in good condition as long as you continue your planned maintenance schedule.

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Porter Cable 4 Piece Cordless Tool Kit: Pics

Porter Cable 4 piece cordless tool kit pictures:

Cordless drill motor:

Cordless circular saw:

Cordless reciprocating saw:

18 volt flash light:

Battery charger and 18 volt battery:

Carry all bag for cordless tool kit

For a little more information on the tools pictured here see our: Product Review | Porter Cable 18 Volt Cordless 4 Tool Combination

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